One can also trek on ponies in some remote places, which is equally enthralling for visitors. Pony treks follow nearly the same routes and are offered mostly in western region of Pokhara, Dolpo and Lo Manthang (Mustang).

Located in the eastern half of Nepal, the Everest region offers a wide range of trekking experiences. From the well-developed trail to Everest base camp to treks in remote semi-wilderness areas, there is a choice to suit all-corners.

The most frequented part of the region is located in Solukhumbu district, the home of the legendary Sherpas. The northern part of the district (Khumbu) is encompassed in the Everest National Park, which was established to protect the fragile environment of the alpine region. To the east of the Everest National Park is the Makalu-Barun National Park, a remote and wild stretch of mountain peaks and deep densely forested valleys. To the west is the Rolwaling valley, a well protected microcosm of cultures and ecology. The southern part of the district, Solu is much less frequented by tourist and be a very rewarding destination in its own right.

Beside Mount Everest there are other 8,000 meter peaks in the region. Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Makalu and in addition numerous other peaks lesser altitude but no less stunning. Add to this glacial lakes rhododendron forest, native flora and fauna, traditional villages and ancient Buddhist monasteries, all go to make this region a spectacular destination.

Permits and Fees

No special trekking permits are required to visit this area provided that the trekker's do not climb any of the peaks. An entry fee is charged for access to Everest National Park. This is payable at the national park desk in Thamel. For treks to the east of main Everest trail an addition permit is required to enter Makalu-Barun National Park obtainable from the same location.

Getting There

Access to the Everest region can only be made by air or on foot. By road, the only practical road ahead at this time is Jiri, a seven to ten hour bus ride from Kathmandu. A new road is under construction to Salleri, the district headquarters, but this will probably be complete for another five years at least. It is also possible to trek to the Everest region via the Arun valley where roads head is at Hille, a twenty ride from the capital. These times are all by local bus as there is no tourist bus service available at this time. Private cars and taxis could be used and would reduce the traveling time considerably but obviously at extra cost. Buses to Jiri currently leave from the old bus park in central Kathmandu.

By air there are three options. The most convenient for Everest treks is Lukla, which is serviced by many daily flights from Kathmandu. Three days walk to south, near the district headquarters, is Phaplu air strip, which is service by daily flights. This is useful for treks in southern parts of the region or for Everest trekkers who want to gain extra acclimatization and see some of less developed part of the district.

The last choice is the small air strip at Syangboche, which is located above Namche Bazar. While this is an option, its altitude (3760 meters) makes it an impractical and unwise choice as an arrival destination for acclimatization reasons.

People and Culture

The main ethnic group that visitors will encounter in the Everest region is the Sherpas. This is their heartland and their influence is to be seen everywhere from their traditional dress to their distinctive houses and village monasteries. There are also minorities of various other groups, notably Rai/Limbu and Tamang in the lower hills and the ubiquitous Bhramin and Chhetri farmers of the valleys.

Flora and Fauna

The flora and fauna to be seen are quiet diverse since the region ranges in altitude from less than 2000 meters above sea level at Jiri to the high peaks of the Himalaya at over 8000 meters. Up to 4000 meters you will find dense stands of forest including pine, oak and the spectacular flowering rhododendrons. The latter are one reason to make a trip in Nepal in the spring when the hills between 2000 and 3500 meters are a riot of colors.

The crop under cultivation will depend on the season that you visit but expect to see wheat, barley, corn and potatoes at some stage. Domesticated animals will range from cattle, buffalo, goats and pigs to the all-purpose beast of mountains-the yak

There is a good chance of seeing wildlife, mostly birds including the national bird of Nepal-the Impeyan Pheasant, or danfe, which is quite common around Namche Bazar. Other notable birds will include the ravens and crows of the middle hills and the coughs which soar to seemingly impossible heights in the mountains. Also in the mountain look for flocks of snow pigeons wheeling around the hillsides.

Land animals can be most elusive but look out mountain goats (most commonly the Himalayan tahr) and, if you are lucky, musk deer or barking deer in the forest.

How and When?

How to trek in Everest region depend entirely on the route that you choose. On the main trail to Everest base camp or the route to Gokyo valley then teahouse trekking is perfectly possible. The trail in from Jiri is also endowed with many continently located teahouses although generally not of such a high standard as those to the north. Other trekking routes will almost certainly require the use of camping and organization of trekking staff and equipment. See the following individual route description for detail.

When to Visit?

The peak season of October/November and March/May are obviously the most popular. At these times the weather is mild and generally dry, making the walking conditions good. The spring season is good for wild flowers, particularly the rhododendrons, while the autumn season generally gives the best mountain views, as the air at this time is crystal clear.

Winter is possible but the chances of snow are higher and passes may be closed, particularly during late winter. Also during this time many of the teahouses will close. The summer/monsoon period is generally unsuitable for trekking period, as the trails are slippery, leeches abundant and the mountain views are unpredictable. It can be rewarding time, however, if you are prepared to tolerate these drawbacks, as the wild flowers are at their best at this time and there are fewer tourists on the trails making interaction with the locals easier.

Hiring Staffs

It is possible to hire guides, porters or yaks at Lukla but for safety a guide from Kathmandu is preferable. The extra cost of his airfare will outweigh the possibility of not finding a suitable guide at Lukla, especially during the peak seasons. Porters are always available at Lukla. Pure yaks will not be found at Lukla, as it is too low for them to operate, but yak crossbreeds will be found there. For a small group only carrying personal gear, porters are preferable. The cost will depend on the seasonal demand for their services.

If your trek starts at Jiri then you will only find porters available there. Guides should definitely brought from Kathmandu.

Looking after the environment

Much has been said about the deteriorating environment of the Himalaya. Over that past few years, due to effort by many overseas expeditions and organizations such as the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and Nepal Mountaineering Association, education programmes and clean-up campaigns have, to a large extent, solved many of the problems.

Having said that, the environment of the high Himalaya is a very fragile eco-system that is easily put out of balance. The locals lived for generations in relative harmony with their surroundings but the recent influx of tourist has put pressure on the indigenous populations to supply more and more services in the name of tourism development. While the Everest National Park is somewhat protective from the worst ravages the same cannot be said about the area immediately to the south. Here, uncontrolled timber collection for fuel and building has led to a marked loss of timber cover. Certain initiatives within the National Park area, such as the banning of glass beer and soft drink bottles, had resulted in a reduction of the amount of non-biodegradable rubbish being left behind. Much more can be done, however, particularly by the trekkers themselves. The KEEP code of trekking conduct is a perfect example.

Everest base Camp

One of the classic treks in Nepal, Everest base camp is most commonly visited as a two week trek starting and finishing at Lukla, the airport just to the south of Everest National park.

During the trekking seasons there are numerous daily flights into and out of Lukla, weather permitting. The flight from Kathmandu, which takes around forty-five minutes, passes over the fertile middle hills, with their scattered villages and terraced fields, with an amazing panorama of the high Himalaya as a backdrop. Before long the mountains close in and you are sweeping down to land at the gateway to Everest-Lukla. Situated high above the banks of the Dudh Koshi river, which carries the melt water from Everest, Lukla provides a range of services, including accommodation but most trekkers will choose to start trekking as soon as they arrive and use Lukla as a final destination on their return.

From Lukla trekker must have a gentle, two days trek up the Dudh Koshi valley to reach Namche Bazar in order to avoid altitude problems. There are plenty of teahouses along the way for the first night stop, Phakding (three hours from Lukla) and Monzo (five hours from Lukla) are the most popular. Just beyond Monzo, trekkers enter the Everest National Park at the Jorsale check post. Here entry permits will be checked and the visitor's passport details recorded. The trail, which has been following the Dudh Koshi since Lukla, starts the ascent to Namche Bazar about one hour past Jorsale.

Namche Bazar, once a small village but since grown in size to accommodate the influx of trekkers, is the unofficial capital of the Sherpas. It was once an important trading centre on the route from Tibet to Nepal but has now been largely given over to catering for the needs of trekkers. There is a multitude of teahouse, equipment shops, curio sellers, restaurant and even cyber cafes that make just about anything the trekker could need, available, albeit at a higher price than in Kathmandu. For acclimatization reasons, trekkers must spend two nights in or around Namche, Which gives the opportunity to explore some of the less developed and more traditional villages in the area.

One of the nicest destination for the acclimation day is to walk to Thame, home of many famous mountaineering Sherpas, including Tenzing Norgay of Everest fame. Often Danfe (Impeyan Pheasant) and Himalaya Tahr can be seen along this trail. The round trip is quite a hard day's walk taking a minimum of eight hours. An option would be to stay the night at one of the teahouse at Thame and retrace your steps the next day. While at Thame, be sure to visit the Buddhist monastery, which is located on hillside about a thirty-minute walk above the village. The valley to the north of Thame leads to Tibet via the Nangpa la, the pass traditionally used by Sherpa and Tibetan traders. The valley to the west of Thame leads to the Trashi Labsta pass and the Rolwaling valley.

Easier option for passing the acclimatization day can be found by visiting the twin Sherpa villages of Khumjung and Khunde, which are about a two-hour walk above Namche. While in Khunde, visit the hospital, which was established and funded by sir Edmund Hillary's Himalayan trust. Khumjung monastery is interesting as being the store place of one of the alleged yeti scalp that is to be found in the region.

Moving on from Namche Bazar the trail follows the valley of the Imja khola with some spectacular views of the mountains including Thamserku, Kangtega and Ama Dablam and, dominating the skyline ahead, Everest and Lhotse. The most common night stop after Namche is at the top of a steep climb from the Imja khola, at Thyangboche. This is the site of one of the most significant Buddhist monasteries in Solukhumbu and a visit is well recommended. Tours of the monastery are conducted each afternoon. If the teahouse and campsites at Thyangboche are full, a common occurrence in the main season, then more lodging can be found a further thirty minutes along the trail at Deboche. The ramshackle nunnery, an extension of the Thyangboche monastery, at Deboche makes an interesting site trip.

Following the Imja khola from Thyangboche the trekking route climbs gradually through pangboche and emerges above the tree line. Eventually, after a long day's trek, you reach the next night's stop at either Pheriche or Dingboche. Here another rest/acclimatization day trip being to Chhukung, around three hours walk above Dingboche. The mountain panorama around Chhukung is nothing short of amazing with the massive south face of Lhotse rearing above it to the north and a ring of lesser peaks surrounding it.

From Dingboche or Pheriche it takes another six hours of trekking to reach the cluster of teahouse at Lobuche sited on the lateral moraine of the khumbu glacier. Above Lobuche it is another three hours walk to the last settlement on the trail at Gorak Shep. Here a few basic teahouses provide shelter for the night before undertaking the final leg of the trek up the glacier to Everest base camp. Above Gorak Shep rises the well-known landmark of Kala Pattar. A climb of two to three hours will reward the trekker with a marvelous vista. Barely eight kilometers to the east is the summit of Everest and just to the most beautiful mountains to be found anywhere.

The trek along the glacier to base camp can take up to five hours depending on the trail conditions. Care should be taken while traveling here, as route finding can be a problem and there are no facilities at base camp (expeditions are generally reluctant to entertain visiting trekkers) so it is important to make sure that you have food and drinks for the return trip. Descending from base camp, most trekkers will reach at least Lobuche, if not further, by nightfall.

The return trek to Lukla basically follows the upward route but rest days are obviously not necessary. The route can be varied, to make the return more interesting, by diverting through upper pangboche and returning to Namche via Phortse (looks for herds of tahr on the hillsides), Mong La and Khumjung. Pangboche, which has few teahouses and campsite, is an interesting place to spend a night. The monastery here is one of the oldest in Solukhumbu and also has yeti relics.

Khumjung would make an interesting alternative stopping place to Namche Bazar if trekkers wished to avoid the hustle and bustle of the bazaar.

If you haven't arranged for somebody to reconfirm your flight out of Lukla for you, be sure to reach there as early as possible on the day before departure in order to make sure that your seat doesn't disappear. Arriving in Lukla on the day of departure is inviting a lost seat.

Gokyo Valley

An alternative, or even better, an addition, to the Everest Base Camp trek is the trek up to the Gokyo valley. Gokyo is located in the valley immediately west of the Everest (Khumbu) valley and is far less developed and crowded than its better-known neighbor to the east. In fact, the Gokyo valley only has one traditional permanent settlement, the rest being summer pastures now catering to the passing trekkers.

If Gokyo is visited after trek to Everest base camp the extra distance only adds a another five days to the itinerary. If Gokyo is visited independently of Everest then care needs to be taken on the upward leg of the trek, as the altitude gain is much greater, leading to many unwary trekkers having problems with AMS. Both options will be described here.

If Gokyo is the ultimate destination rather than Everest then the Everest trail is followed as far as the teahouses at Kenjoma (where the trail from Khumjung joins the main trail). From here the Gokyo trail climbs up the hillside to a pass at Mong La before dropping steeply back down to the banks of the Dudh Koshi. The next two hours of trekking, through beech, rhododendron and oak forest, past waterfalls, which are often frozen, and ultimately through pine forests before breaking out above the tree line is one of the best sections of any trail in the area. Just above the trees line are the teahouses of dole, a convenient stopping place for the first night.

The following day must be very short if you are to avoid altitude problems. it only takes around for hours to reach Machherma but this is as far as most trekkers should travel that day. The valley that leads west above Manchherma is well worth an afternoon visit. it is here that the last reported sighting of a yeti was made. A yeti sighting unlikely but the valley is stunning none the less. The rocky bulk of Kyajo Ri, an unclimbed and impressive peak, dominates the head of the valley.

The final push up to Gokyo takes you past the teahouses at Pangkha and up the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier, the largest glacier in Nepal. Just above the moraine is the first of the glacial lakes for which Gokyo is renowned. If it isn't frozen, look for migrating ducks on the lake surface. The trail passes two more lakes to reach the teahouses of Gokyo about four to five hours after leaving Machherma.

The Gokyo valley is dominated at its head by the massive form of Cho Oyu, at 8153 meters the eight highest peaks on earth. Many options are available in the upper Gokyo valley. The most common destination is the rock hill above the third lake known as Gokyo Ri or Gokyo Kala Pattar. This hill, which takes at least two hours to climb, provides an even better panorama than the one seen from the more famous Kala Pattar at Gorak Shep (see Everest base camp trek description). To get the most out of a climb of Gokyo Ri, leave the teahouses at least two hours before dawn in order to have a sunrise view of the Himalaya. Other options include an additional day spent trekking further up the valley past the fourth and fifth lakes to Cho Oyu base camp. It must be remembered that there are no facilities beyond Gokyo and all trekkers must be self-sufficient.

There are two high passes leading out of the Gokyo valley. The most traveled in Cho la pass which connects with the khumbu valley near Lobuche and the other is the renjo la pass that joins the trail between Thame and Nangpa la. Both of these are serious undertakings that require some basic mountaineering skills and equipment depending on weather conditions. Teahouse trekkers have successfully crossed Cho la but the risk of sudden storm, which could trap unprepared trekkers, is always possible. Neither pass should be attempted without a competent guide.

if you are visiting the Gokyo valley in addition to Everest base camp it is as far better to trek to Gokyo after visiting Everest ,for acclimatization reasons. Follow the Everest trek route described previously and take the alternative exit route as far as Phortse. From here, follow the eastern side of the valley through some isolated settlements, which include the village of Konar, the only permanent settlement above Phortse. The trail climbs, mostly gently, up the valley with some superb view of Cho Oyu in front and Thamserku and Kangtega behind. There are no facilities available on the side of the valley until the small teahouse at nah is reached after about six hours walking from Phortse. Trekkers should therefore carry their supplies for the day. Nah is a good place to camp but for teahouse accommodation Pangkha, another hour further on, has far better facilities. From here the previously described trail is followed to Gokyo.

Jiri to Lukla

An alternative to taking the flight to Lukla is to trek in from the road ahead at Jiri. Jiri can be reached by local bus from Kathmandu in seven to ten hours depending on road conditions or by taxi or private car in five to six hours. There are no tourist bus services available. A newly opened extension to the road beyond Jiri currently reaches the village of Shivalaya but, since the bus takes over two hours from Jiri and walk takes barely three hours it makes little sense to take the bus.

The trek from Jiri to Lukla takes an average of seven days and gives preparation for the Everest base camp trek. It is never flat as it crosses the grain of the land for the first five days. The highest point reached before Lukla is Lamjura La pass, which is at 3530 meters above sea level. A highlight of the area around the Lamjura La is the magnificent display of pink and lilac rhododendrons in spring.

The trek passes through parts of Solukhumbu that are relatively undeveloped compared with the northern part of the district around Namche Bazaar. This enables trekkers to experience many traditional aspects of the culture of the local people that are less easy to see above Lukla. The trail passes through numerous settlements of different ethnic groups including Tamang, Jirel, Rai, Brahmin and Chhetri and, of course, the Sherpas. The trail is well serviced, with trekking teahouses and good campsites in most of the settlements. starting trekking from Jiri the night halts will most likely be at the villages of Deurali, Kenja, Sete, Lamjura, Junbesi, Trasindho, Karki Khola and Surkne(below Lukla). The most interesting of these stops is probably Junbesi, the oldest Sherpa settlement in Solu. An extra day spent here will be time well spent. The local teahouse owners will arrange guided day trips if you are traveling without your own guide but the main points of interest are the monastery of Thupten Chholing, about an hour above Junbesi and the villages of Mabung and Pangkarma which are en route to the monastery. The monastic school at Phungmoche, an hour above Thupten Chholing is also worth visiting and can offer guest accommodation for limited numbers.

Below the pass at Tragsindho the trail falls over 1500 meters to cross the Dudh Koshi. Here it follows the river and joins the main trail to Everest Base Camp below Lukla.

Other treks around Solu

The southern part of Solukhumbu (Solu) holds many attractions as a destination in its own right. The options are many but the best known of treks are the nine day trek over Pike, the Dudh kunda trek and treks east of the district headquarters at Salleri. None of these routes are serviced with so trekkers must be fully self-sufficient.

Over Pike Danda

This trek, of nine day's duration, usually starts in Jiri and ends with a flight back to Kathmandu from Phaplu. It is also possible to continue on from Phaplu and join the Everest trek at Ringmo, the village below the Tragsindho La pass. The highest of the trek is the stunning view from the top of pike, which includes Everest as well as a great number of lesser snow-capped peaks.

To travel over Pike Danda, follow the Jiri to Lukla trek as far as the Likhu Khola, before Kenja. The route then climbs steeply through the villages of Goli Gompa and Ngaur before reaching the 4065 meter summit of Pike. Descent to Phaplu is via the Sherpa village of Lodingma, home of several Everest summiteers .there is an alternative, rough, trail that joins the Jiri to Lukla trail near Lamjura La.

Due to the high altitude of Pike, trekkers must be particularly careful to watch for signs of AMS and be prepared to spend extra nights at Goli or Ngaur if necessary.

To Dudh Kunda

The sacred lake of Dudh kunda lies at the base of Mt.Nambur, the mountain regarded by the locals as being the home of the protective deity of Solu. In August there is an influx of devotees who come to perform cleansing ritual at the lake. At other time you are unlikely to meet anyone on this rarely traveled trail.

The main trail to Dudh kunda starts at Ringmo on the route between Junbesi and Tragsindho La. an alternative route to the lake starts at Thupten Chholing and follows a spectacular, isolated ridge through dense forest and then opens, and sometimes rocky, yak grazing pastures to join the main trail at Sarsarbeni. This latter trail is quite remote and a local guide may be needed if your staff is unfamiliar with the route.

From Ringmo, the trek to Dudh kunda takes a minimum of five days but at least one extra day for exploring around the lake should be allowed for. While at the lake, be sure to walk right around its shore and look for the spring, high up on the Northeastern side which is considered to be the source of the holy water.

There are several additional option for extending treks above Dudh Kunda but the remote nature of the country makes a locally experienced guide essential.

Treks around Salleri

The district headquarters of Solukhumbu can make an interesting base for several short walks visiting local villages and viewpoints. Salleri itself has few tourists but Phaplu, an hour's walk to the north, boasts a range of teahouse options and also has suitable camping sites.

The Chailsa-Chiwong Circuit

One of the nicest short treks follows the ridge above Salleri, to the east. This ridge the Ratanji Danda, gives mountain views across Makalu Barun N.P and also distant views of Everest. The route follows the ridge north as far as Tragsindho. then a circuit can be completed by following the valley back to Phaplu .along the trek highlights are the views, well preserved forest, the Tibetan resettlement camp at Chailsa (above Salleri) and the Buddhist monastery at Chiwong. Chiwong is famous for the Mani Rimdu festival held here each year in November. At least four nights should be allowed for this trek starting and ending in Phaplu.

There are many other possibilities in the area including reversing the Pike Danda trek described previously. Seek advice from local teahouse owners for details.

The Hinkhu and Hongu Valleys

Located to the west of Solukhumbu is the secluded and rarely visited Rolwaling valley. The upper reaches of the valley are connected to the Solukhumbu by the high and difficult pass of Trashi Labsta. Trekkers contemplating trek that connects Rolwaling with khumbu should always travel from east to west (khumbu to Rolwaling). To attempt to do the trek in reverse is likely to result in technical and altitude problems. The trek, particularly the crossing of Trashi Labsta, is one of the more difficult treks in Nepal and should only be attempted by self-sufficient, strong and experienced parties. Some basic mountaineering skills are required. Staff, particularly porters, must be experienced and from the district. For good acclimatization, a trek to Everest Base Camp or Gokyo, prior to crossing over to Rolwaling, is an excellent idea.

The route to Trashi Labsta starts at Thame (see Everest Base Camp description).it takes two nights to reach Trashi Labsta which, ideally, should be crossed early in the day to avoid rock fall from the slopes above. The pass is usually ice covered and porters carrying large loads will need assistance. If camping at the peaks, be careful to choose a campsite that is well away from the rock fall area.

The next two days are spent traveling down the Drolambao glacier. There are two icefalls on the route, which usually require the use of ropes to descend. At the end of the glacier is the massive Cho Rolpa glacial lake. This lake, which is now being drained, was at one time threatening to burst and inundate much of the Rolwaling valley.

After the glacier the upper Rolwaling valley is hemmed in by mountains on both sides with the bulk of Gauri Shankar on the northern side. The settlements on Nah and Beding are Sherpa villages, Nah being only a summer settlement. As you descended below beding the valley becomes forested first with juniper and pines and later the vegetation becomes lusher. The Sherpas give way to people of the middle hills mainly Tamang and Brahmins. After seven days from Trashi Labsta the end of the trek is reached at Charikot on the Kathmandu to Jiri road.

Everest to the Arun valley

As an alternative to Jiri or Lukla the Everest trek can be started or ended by trekking across to the valley in the eastern side of Nepal. The starting point can be Hille if traveling by road or Tumlingtar if a flight is preferred. Getting to or from Hille involves a lengthy bus journey from Kathmandu of around fourteen hours. If this route is taken an entry permit for Makalu Barun National Park is required.

If using the Arun valley as an alternative exit, the route leaves the main Everest trail at Kharte, the village above Khari Khola. It generally travels south east crossing the major rivers in the area, the Hindu Khola and the Hongu Khola, and two high passes, the Pangkoma la (3350 meters) and the Salpa La (3350 meters). Both of these passes give good views of the mountains to the north. The scenery along the trail ranges from mixed farming land and scattered Sherpa and Rai villages to stands of forest including rhododendron and oak. After trekking for five days from where several flights a week connect with Kathmandu and Biratnagar. A further two days trek to the south is Hille from where daily buses operate to Kathmandu.

Beside the Everest region, the area around the Annapurna massif is perhaps the best known trekking destination in Nepal. Based on sheer numbers of trekking visitors it is certainly the most popular. As the title suggests, the centre piece of this part of Nepal is the range of mountains that includes Annapurna I, the first of the 8000 meter peaks to be climbed. Also included in this general area is another 8000 meter giant, Dhaulagiri, which is located west of Annapurna I. Between these two mountains runs the valley of the Kali-Gandaki River, the deepest gorge on earth. Combine this with lush, fertile farming land, stands of undistributed natural forest and a mixture of different ethnic inhabitants and you have a diverse range of experiences that makes this area one of the most satisfying trekking destinations in Nepal.

The fact that the main Himalayan range runs south of the border with Tibet means that that the northern parts of the area are in the rain shadow and are considerably drier than the southern slopes of the mountains. This leads to unusually diverse landscapes.

Permits and Fees

For most of the Annapurna trekking area, no trekking permits are required. The exception is upper Mustang where a fee of US$700 per person is levied for a ten-day visit. Additional restrictions relating to Mustang will be outlined later.

Most of the area discussed in the trek descriptions is within the area controlled by Annapurna Conservation Area Project. Entry to this area is controlled and an entry permit has to be purchased. The permit must be purchased before starting the trek and can be obtained in Kathmandu or Pokhara. The proceeds of these fees are largely used for the local community development within the project area.

Getting There

Regardless of the trek chosen it is most likely that Pokhara will be either starting or ending point of your trek. Pokhara is located 200 km. west of Kathmandu and can be reached by road in five to six hour or by air in 30 minutes from the capital. For road travel there are a number of tourist buses available daily from Kathmandu and from Chitwan.

There is no shortage of tourist facilities to be found in and around Pokhara. The main center for tourists is at the side of the largest of the three lakes in the area, Phewa Tal. The suburbs of Lakeside and Damside both provide a wide range of accommodation and restaurants along with the usual variety of trekking and traveling agencies and suppliers of souvenirs and trekking equipment. For those trekking in the eastern side of the Annapurna massif the most likely starting point will be Besishahar, the district headquarters of Lamjung district. Buses from Kathmandu, Pokhara and the Terai arrive and depart here on a regular daily basis. The bus trip from Kathmandu to Besishahar takes around four to five hours but, at this time, there are no tourist bus services available.

Most treks starting or ending in Pokhara will require the use of buses or hired cars to reach the trailheads. Specific details appear in the trek descriptions.

Flora and Fauna

As can be imagined, the range of geographical and climatic regions has led to a diverse variety of flora and fauna within the Annapurna region. Both Pokhara and Besishahar are below 1000 meter elevation and their climate is quiet tropical. These parts of area are heavily cultivated and the landscape, therefore, largely consists of terraced paddy fields for most of the year. The area is also famous for its winter crops of oranges, which can be purchased fresh from the trees along the trails in the foothills. As you progress higher up into the hills the natural vegetation changes from the tropical species to more temperate stands of forest trees including oak, beech and rhododendron. These finally give way to coniferous forests of pine and, ultimately, juniper just below the tree line. In the rain shadow, to the north of the mountains, the landscape is quite barren being an extension south of the Tibetan plateau. Here there are only stunted bushes and shrubs except for close to the rivers where irrigated cropping is possible.

Native animals to be seen include many birds the most obvious being the pika, blue sheep and Himalayan Tahr.

Trekking styles

Most of the trekking routes in the Annapurna region are well serviced by teahouses for most of their length. This is particularly true for most popular treks-the Jomsom trek, the Annapurna circuit and Annapurna base camp treks.

Trekkers should be aware, however that there is always the risk of being stranded by bad weather or injury/sickness between teahouses, particularly in the more remote parts of the trek itineraries. a good example is on the Annapurna circuit where there is one very long day when the high pass of Thorong La has to be crossed. There is little or no shelter available for most of this day and some trekkers have been caught unprepared by bad weather and altitude problems.

The treks in less developed areas, particularly the Dhaulagiri circuit and the trek east of Lamjung, definitely require trekkers to be self sufficient in food and shelter.

People and Culture

The most prominent ethnic groups in the Annapurna region are the Gurung, the Thakali and the Manangba. The Gurungs are the most widely distributed being found from the hills of Gorkha district to as far west as Palpa. There heartland, however, is centered on the hills and valleys between the Marsyandi river and the kali Gandaki. The Thakali come from the upper kali Gandaki valley around Jomsom where their traditional farming has being supplemented by trade and, in particular, hotel and restaurant businesses. The Manangba are found in the upper reaches of the Marsyandi River and are in many ways similar to the Gurungs to whom they are possibly related. They are skilled traders and trace their roots back to Tibet. Religiously, the Manangba and the Gurungs of the upper hills is Buddhist with traces of their ancient, shamanistic faith still apparent. The communities live further south are predominantly Hindu.

All of the communities, particularly the Gurungs are famed for their cultural performances, which are easily seen while trekking in the region. Many villages along the trails will arrange performances for trekkers during the main seasons.

When to visit?

As with most of the trekking areas in Nepal, the best time to visit are during spring and autumn. Spring is the time for rhododendrons while the clearest skies are found after the monsoon in October and November. At these times the weather is generally mild and there is little rainfall. Unlike other parts of Nepal, the monsoon, from June to September, is the ideal time to visit pats of the region that falls in the rain shadow. In particular, upper mustang is the perfect destination during the rainy season. The winter months provide good trekking conditions throughout the foothills but some of the higher passes will be closed due to snow.

Hiring Staffs

If you have not traveled from Kathmandu with your staffs then you will be able to make all of the necessary arrangements in Pokhara through one of the many trekking agencies that have offices in lakeside. This is generally only place where such arrangements can be reliably made although porters will often be found at centers such as Besishahar at the start of the Annapurna circuit.

Annapurna Circuit

The classic trek in the Annapurna region is the Annapurna circuit. The complete circuit has only been possible since mid 1980's when the Manang area was officially opened up to non-Nepali visitors. For and all-round experience of the scenery and culture of Nepal this trek has a lot to offer. Starting in the lush Marsyandi valley, that separates the Annapurna range from that of Manaslu, the scenery is composed of lush cultivated fields with dense forests on either side. In the winter season, orange tree are laden with fruits and fragrant frangipani blossoms cast their scent along the trails. As you travel higher the valley becomes more rugged until the villages and forests finally give way to the arid hills of Manang. The Thorong La pass, at 5416 meters, marks the highpoint of the treks after which the trail joins the kali Gandaki river that flows through the deepest gorge on earth.

This is a challenging trek that is not without some risks. The crossing of Thorong La can be dangerous at times, especially during unexpected snowfall so potential trekkers must make sure that they are well prepared and equipped for all eventualities. The trek can be completed in a minimum of fifteen days, starting in Kathmandu and finishing in Pokhara. If a few extra days are allowed for it is then possible to enjoy several of the possible side trips and add immeasurably to the experience. And entry permit for the Annapurna conservation area project (ACAP) is needed for this trek.

Most trekkers start the trek by taking the bus from Kathmandu to Besishahar. These days the journey accomplished in around five or six hours which allows a few hours trekking on the first day. The trail from Besishahar follows the partly constructed road as far as the small market town of Kuldi. This road can be avoided by crossing the river below Besishahar and trekking along the east bank of the river rejoining the main trail at Bhul Bhule.

The first few days of the trek follow the Marshyangdi through scattered farming communities by a mixer predominantly composed of Gurungs but with a sizeable numbers of Brahmin communities. The crop range from rice and wheat at the lower elevations to corn, millet and barley as the altitude increases. Above the valley floor the hills are cloaked in forest with the occasional clearing indicating human settlements. Higher still, the snowy peak of the Annapurna and the Manaslu ranges dominate the skyline. A feature of this section of the trek is the number of high waterfalls that cascade down into the main river. The valley rises slowly slow altitude sickness is rarely a problem at this stage.

After a four days on the trail the river, which has been flowing from the north changes its course and flows from the west. At this point the landscape changes with steep rocky gorges on its side and large stands of pine making up the forest cover. By the time the district headquarters of Chame has been passed the hills are becoming more and more barren and the people predominantly Manangba. Look for a number of ancient temples, some of which represent the pre-Buddhist, Bon religion.

The tree line is reached a few hours before arriving at mustang where a compulsory rest day should be taken for acclimatization to the increasing altitude. There are a number of possible side trips from Manang that can be taken on the acclimatization day. Perhaps the most spectacular is to the west, across the river and up to the Gangapurna glacier with its deep blue lake formed by the melting glacial ice. The Himalayan rescue association clinic is located in Manang village and holds afternoon awareness lectures for trekkers warning of the dangers of AMS. These lectures are well worth attending.

From Manang, the trial passes through high alpine pastures until the small cluster of teahouses at Thorong Phedi id reached. An early morning start from here will allow you to reach Thorong La by mid morning and then start the long descent across the scree slopes to Muktinath before the afternoon cloud sweeps in. the whole section have no permanent settlements and shelter is hard to find. For safety, trekkers should never travel alone this section.

Muktinath, a famed pilgrimage site for both Buddhists and Hindus, is the first major settlement reached after the crossing of Thorong La. Be sure to visit the temples here and especially look for the eternal flame, fuelled by natural gas, which can be found in the small Buddhist temple below the main shrine.

From Muktinath the views of the west are now of the Dhaulagiri range while to the north can be seen the arid hills of upper mustang. The trial Leeds down through villages inhabited by people of Tibetan stock until it reaches the banks of the kali Gandaki River, the home of Thakali people. A further four days trekking down through this, the deepest valley on earth, brings you to the road head at Beni from where buses to Pokhara can be found. Settlements of particular interest below Muktinath are Jomsom with its airport, a possible exit point to Pokhara, Marpha with its fascinating medieval architecture designed to ward off the fierce winds that blow daily up the gorge and Tatopani with its hot springs.

There are a number of possible side trip that can be combined with the Annapurna circuit. Either from the Manang side or from below Jomsom it is possible to trek up to the high-altitude lake at Tilicho. You must allow at least four days for this trek and be fully self-sufficient. Also on the eastern side of the kali Gandaki there is a trial that leads to the original north Annapurna base camp that was used by the French expedition that first scaled the peak. On the western side of the valley treks to Hidden valley via Dhampus pass and to the Dhaulagiri icefall are also possible option. All of these site trips are suitable only for fit and experienced parties who are fully self-sufficient.

Annapurna Sanctuary (Annapurna base Camp)

the other classic trek in the Annapurna region is to the so called Annapurna sanctuary, the site of the base camp used by expeditions attempting the massive south face of Annapurna I. a short trek, it can be completed in as little as eight days from Pokhara. The trek to Annapurna base camp combines some of the most spectacular mountain scenery with a fascinating insight into the life of middle hill Nepalis. The best time to visit the sanctuary is during the main trekking season of spring and autumn but since the route is not a circuit, the trial, and the teahouses, can become crowded at these times. Winter trek are possible but at any time trekkers must beware of snowfall and avalanches that can block the narrow entrance to the sanctuary.

This trek is usually started and ended in Pokhara but it can also be made a part of the Annapurna circuit or the Jomsom trek by trekking from Tatopani through Ghorepani and Tadapani and joining the main sanctuary trial at Chomrong. For maximum enjoyment, allow twelve or fourteen days for the trek, which allows time for exploration inside the sanctuary and also the chance to extend the route on to Ghorepani and Poon hill. Trekkers traveling this route must obtain an ACAP entry permit either from Kathmandu or Pokhara before commencing the trek.

To start the trek at Pokhara there are a number of choices of route. Perhaps the best is to take a taxi or bus to Naudanda Phedi where the trial up to Dhampus will be found. The route passes through a number of Gurung settlements including Dhampus, Pothana and Landrung. At Landrung the choice is to cross to Ghandrung, a descent and subsequent climb involving several hundred meters of elevation change, or to continue on up the Modi khola through Naya Pul. Both trials join at Chomrong at the foot of the gorge leading to the sanctuary. An additional attraction on the Naya Pul trial is a very welcome hot spring half way to Chomrong.

From Chomrong there is only one trial, which follows the ever-narrowing most khola to finally enter the sanctuary. Due to the altitude gain, two nights must be spent between Chomrong and the sanctuary in order to avoid the risk of AMS. There are a number of settlements in the valley, providing ample accommodation. However, during winter it is wide to check at Chomrong in case the teahouse up the valley has closed for the off season.

The trial up the Modi khola passes through dense stands of rhododendron and bamboo for the first day. By the time the large rock overhang, known as Hinku cave, is reached the vegetation has thinned and the gorge narrowed to be only a few hundred meters wide. Steep, snow-clad ridges falling from Himchuli on the left and Machhapuchhre on the right from the entrance to the sanctuary. as you pass through the "gate” and enter the sanctuary you will find yourself in a huge amphitheater enclosed by a solid wall of snow capped peaks which include Annapurna I, II, III and IV plus the fish tailed spire of the Machhapuchhre. Teahouses are available at Machhapuchhre base camp, just inside the sanctuary, or at Annapurna base camp, a further two hours beyond.

Spend at least one full day inside the sanctuary. Side trips across the south Annapurna glacier, north from Annapurna base camp allow for an even better appreciation of this unique place.

Return by the same route to Chomrong where you can choose to retrace your outward steps or deviate through either Ghandrung or Ghorepani.

Annapurna Foothills

There are a number of options for short treks in the foothills to the north of Pokhara. Most of these variations will visit Ghandrung and Ghorepani. The former is a large, traditional Gurung village while Ghorepani is the settlement below the famed vantage point of Poon hill, one of the best spots from which to view the central Nepal Himalaya range.

The various itineraries are all relatively easy and none reach high enough elevations for AMS to be an issue. Generally between five and six trekking days are sufficient for any of the itinerary option. All enter the ACAP area so an entry permit is required. The permit should be obtained either in Kathmandu or Pokhara prior to starting the trek. Teahouses are plentiful through the foothills but there are a couple of alternative routes that will require the trekker to be self-sufficient if these trails are chosen.

The most commonly trekked of the foothill itineraries starts and ends at Naya Pul on the Baglung highway(not to be confused with the Naya Pul on the Modi Khola beyond Landrung).traveling by bus or taxi, the journey to Naya Pul takes around one to two hours. Cross the Modi khola at Naya Pul and trek through Birethanti to Syauli Bazaar following the river through cultivated fields and small villages. At Syauli Bazaar the trial climbs steeply to the large Gurung village of Ghandrung (pronounced Ghandruk by the locals). Here there is wide selection of teahouses and community operates craft and cultural displays. An extra day spent at Ghandrung experiencing the traditional Gurung way of life is well worthwhile.

From Ghandrung the main trial passes through Tadapani to the pass at Ghorepani. Above the hill is Phoon hill, a climb of around three hundred meters. The reward for making the climb at dawn or dusk is one of the best mountain panoramas in Nepal. The view takes in Dhaulagiri, the Annapurnas and, in the distance, the Manaslu range.

From Ghorepani there are three choices. The most commonly taken route drops down the villages of Ulleri and Turkedhunga to Birethanti, the original starting point of the trek. There is a steep trial and can be quite crowded during the peak seasons. It passes through sense stands of oak and rhododendron until Ulleri is reached after which the landscape is mostly cultivated fields.

Another option is to continue on from Ghorepani and descend to the kali Gandaki at Tatopani (see Annapurna circuit trek description). After a night at Tatopani the river can be followed down to Beni from where buses to Pokhara are available.

The third possibility is to trek along the ridge that starts at Phoon hill. There is little in the way of permanent settlement until the high point of the ridge at Bhuka is reached. Just below the hill is Gurung village of Langdi while a couple of hours further down the ridge are Tangle, another Gurung settlement. From here it is only a short distance back to the main trial at Birethanti and Naya Pul. This ridge walk is quite isolated and no teahouse accommodation is available making self-sufficiency essential. It has the advantage of being well off the normal tourist route and allows for an insight into local culture that is harder to find on the main trial.

Jomsom and Muktinath

The Jomsom trek is probably the single most popular trek in Nepal. The diverse landscapes and cultures to be found along the trek route give a marvelous insight into the way of life of rural Nepalese people. The main feature of trek is the walk through the George craved by the kali Gandaki River, which carries water from the Tibetan plateau to eventually join the Ganges in India.

Normally trekkers continue on above Jomsom to Muktinath, the famous pilgrimage site for both Buddhists and Hindus. To Hindus, Muktinath is sacred as the place of salvation. They believe that to wash in the waters here guarantees salvation after death. The Hindu god, Brahma, is thought to have lit the eternal flames that still burn at Muktinath. To the Buddhists it is a place that the great sage guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) meditated at, and to all, it is the source of fossilized ammonites, known locally as shaligrams, which are found all along the upper reaches of kali Gandaki. The people of this part of Nepal are a mixture of Gurung and Magar in the lower stretches of the kali Gandaki, Thakali people around Jomsom and people with obvious Tibetan roots, the Lopa, around Muktinath and up into mustang. Their customs and dress are all quite distinct and this trek gives a chance to see those differences. The religions seen range from Hinduism in the lower parts to the Tibetan style Buddhism as you travel further north. Should you be in Muktinath In early September you will be able to see one of Nepal’s unique festivals, the annual horse races known as Yartung. This is a week of some serious horse racing, Tibetan style, and some equally serious merrymaking.

Most of the route for the Jomsom trek has been described as part of the Annapurna circuit and Annapurna foothills treks. The normal standing point is Naya Pul on the Pokhara to Baglung road and fro there, via Ghorepani and Tatopani, into the gorge of kali Gandaki.

Between Tatopani and Lete khola the scenery changes dramatically. Pine forests crowd in on the trial and the villages take on a quite different appearance. The layout of the villages and the design of the houses are both quite unique to this area. They are designed to protect their inhabitants from the strong winds that blow up the valley everyday from late morning onwards. These winds are caused by differences in atmospheric pressure between the Tibetan plateau and the lower reaches of the valley. The best example of this unique architecture is to be found at the village of Marpha which is a two hour walk below Jomsom. The stone flagged streets with an efficient underground drainage system and the flat roofed houses all with a central courtyard make an attractive spot to spend an extra rest day. Sample the apple products from the prolific orchards that have been set up in the valley.

Jomsom is best known for its airport that offers a quick entry or exit to the valley with regular daily flights from Pokhara. Remember that the winds that blow up the valley normally mean that no flights can arrive or depart from Jomsom after 11 am. Jomsom can also be considered as a place to use as a base for exploring the upper part of the kali Gandaki. There are numerous accommodation options including a new high-class resort complex.

An alternative to Jomsom as a final base for the trek is the village of Kagbeni; a further two hours up the valley. Kagbeni is much less commercialized than Jomsom and certainly much quieter. This is as far as trekkers are allowed to go towards upper Mustang without having a special trek permit and an accompanying environmental officer. For details see the upper mustang treks description. From Kagbeni to Muktinath takes three to four and trekkers can choose to do this as a day trip or to stay at one of the many teahouses available at Muktinath.

Sikles

The Gurung village of Sikles has been established by the ACA project as a model trekking village and is an internal part of their eco-route. It is located to the north east of Pokhara, at about 2000 meters elevation, in the shadow of Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal. It is a large village, possibly the second largest Gurung village in Nepal, and is a well-preserved example of traditional Gurung culture. While here, the trekker can easily spend several days experiencing local life-style, handicraft production and sight-seeing. Of particular interest are the local cloth weaving and the ancient water driven flourmills.

Above the village is Rishing Danda, from where a marvelous panoramic view of the peaks of Annapurna II and Lamjung can be seen. This place is also famous as a point from which to see avalanches thundering down off the mountain sides.

Folk songs and dances are an important part of Gurung life and cultural performances are common occurrences in Sikles. Of particular interest here is the Ghantu dance, traditionally performed by three young girls.

Accommodation in Sikles can be either in teahouses or, by prior arrangement with ACAP Pokhara office, in village homes.

To get to Sikles it is best to do the round trip, starting in Pokhara and taking a taxi to Kabhre Danda. From here it takes two days t trek to Sikles via Chansu. To return, follow the eco-route through the Ghalekhaeka and Diprang and back into Pokhara in a further three days easy trekking.

Lamjung Trek

The area to the east of the Marshyandi River, between Lamjung and Gorkha districts, has a great deal of potential for remote area treks. This part of the country has not developed any of the conventional tourist infrastructures so groups will need to be fully self-sufficient and have competent guides familiar with the local trials. No special permits are required.

The best destinations are the lakes of Mimi Pokhari and Dudh Pokhari, which are located on the southwestern slopes of Baudha Himal and Himal Chuli, both a part of the Manaslu massif. These two lakes are pilgrimage sites for local Gurung people during the summer months. The best starting point for treks to both of these lakes is either Phalensangu or Besishahar.

Beyond Dudh Pokhari is a high pass, Rupina Bhanjyang, which takes the trekker in to the valley of the Budhi Gandaki. Alternatively, from Dudh Pokhari a trail can be followed into the Deurandi khola valley and on to Gorkha.

To the west of the Marshyandi River there are other possibilities for self-sufficient trekkers. There is much more habitation on the side of the river but little or no tourist facilities. Treks from Besishahar through the villages of Ghalegaon, Bhujung, and on towards Sikles are possible but, again, guides with local knowledge are essential. An ACAP entry permit is required to trek past Ghalegaon. A number of village home stay programmes are being developed in the area, which will afford visitors a unique insight into rural life.

Above Ghalegaon a remote trial leads through uninhabited country to the high pass of Namun La. This pass leads down to the Marshyandi khola near Bagarchap on the Annapurna circuit route. Trekkers attempting this route must ensure that they and their staff are well prepared for this crossing which is often snow bound.

Dhaulagiri Circuit

A circuit of Dhaulagiri massif is possible for well-equipped and fully self-sufficient parties. The minimum time that should be allowed for this itinerary is eighteen days Pokhara to Pokhara but a few extra days to allow for side trips or bad weather are advisable. The route crosses two high which are in remote country far from any assistance. Particular care must be taken with regards to proper acclimatization and staff equipment. Since much of the first half of the trek travels on rarely trekked trails, the services of an experienced local guide are highly recommended. No special permits are required for the Dhaulagiri circuit but for the last part, down the kali Gandaki, an ACAP entry permit is needed.

The trek is best started at Beni, the district headquarters of Myagdi district. Myagdi is one of the most easterly of the districts where the Magar people can be found. This group of hill dwellers are similar in many ways to their Gurung neighbors but are thought to have settled in Nepal some time earlier. Like their Gurung cousins, the Magar have a tradition of service in the Gurkha regiments. Regular bus services operate from Pokhara as far as Baglung and from there, are less frequent services to Beni.

The Dhaulagiri trail follows the Myagdi khola, the river that drains the southern side of the Dhaulagiri massif. Passing through the settlements of Darbang and Muri, the country is still quite heavily populated with scattered villages and farming land. Beyond Muri, the Myagdi khola swings north and the landscape becomes much more rugged and sparsely populated. The tree line is reached just below the sit of the, so called, Italian base camp, located at the snout of the Chhonbaraan Glacier, is an ideal place to spend an acclimatization day exploring the hills around about.

The next two days are spent on the glacier, the second night being at Dhaulagiri base camp, a rugged spot with some spectacular views of the western face of Dhaulagiri.

From here the trial crosses French pass which at 5360 meters is the highest point of the trek. Descending French pass you enter the lonely but fascinating area known as Hidden valley. This place is one of the few true wilderness areas accessible to trekkers in Nepal. The valley stretches away to the north eventually narrowing to a rugged gorge that connects to Upper Dolpa. There are reports of many endangered species residing in this area including the elusive snow leopard. If all the members and the staff of the group are fit then a rest and exploration day spent in hidden valley is well worth while.

From Hidden valley the trial now crosses Dhampus pass (sometimes known as Thapa pass). While not as high as French pass, it is roughly 100 meters lower, Dhampus pass has a reputation for bad weather which can make the crossing and subsequent descent something of a problem. Trekkers must be aware of the health of their group members and staff, especially on the section between French pass and Dhampus pass. Any person suffering from the symptoms of AMS must never be taken on over French pass but rather, taken back down the Myagdi khola to a lower altitude. Having a group member suffer from AMS between the passes poses a serious problem as the only way to get the patient assistance is to ascend which would make the problem worse.

Having crossed Dhampus pass the trial descends into the valley of the kali Gandaki meeting the main trial at either Marpha or Tukuche. On the way down to the valley there are some spectacular views across to the Annapurnas and up into the arid steppes of Mustang.

The rest of the trek is described in the Annapurna circuit description.

UpperMustang

To trek into upper mustang is a rare privilege. Here you will experience the way of life of the true mountain people, for years, cut off from the rest of Nepal. In many ways, a trek into upper mustang is similar to trekking into Tibet, which geographically it is a part of. The district of Mustang was, until 1950, a separate kingdom within the boundaries of Nepal. The last king, the raja of mustang, still has his home at the ancient capital, Lo Manthang.

Access to upper Mustang has only been possible for non-Nepalese trekkers for around ten years and, even today, access is still heavily regulated and restricted. To enter upper Mustang, that is to travel further north than Kagbeni, trekkers need a special trekking permit and mist be accompanied by a government appointed environmental officer. The expenses of the environmental officer have to borne by the group. Trekker must have arranged their trek through a government recognized trekking agency in order to be issued permits. The cost of the trekking permit is US$700 per person for ten-day trek in the restricted area.

Upper Mustang, being in the Himalayan rain shadow, is one of the few parts of the country that are suitable for trekking during the summer monsoon period. Even at this time, the upper kali Gandaki valley is still quiet dry with only occasional rainfall. The Mustang trek is not particularly difficult, the highest point reached is only 3800 meters, but the conditions at times can be arduous. Cold in winter and windy and dusty all year. Winter treks are best avoided due to southern parts of the country and even India.

There are few accommodation facilities available above Kagbeni so groups must be fully self-sufficient, especially in fuel. While porters are available in Jomsom it is preferable, in Mustang, to use mules to carry the loads. These pack animals are available locally and are more economical, and certainly more environmentally friendly, than human porters.

The Mustang trek requires a minimum of nine days starting and ending in Kagbeni. This allows the trek to be completed within the ten-day permit period. The route basically follows the kali Gandaki valley but, on occasions, climbs high above the valley walls. The settlements are scattered with little sign of cultivation between villages. In Mustang, little will grow without irrigation, which makes the settlements reminiscent of oases.

Lo Manthang, the old capital, is reached in four days and at least one extra day should be spent here for local sight-seeing. Ponies are available for hire for this purpose.

The return trip can either follow the upward route or, for an alternative, the eastern bank of the kali Gandaki may be followed.

Short Treks out of Pokhara

There are a number of relatively easy short treks that can be undertaken around Pokhara. The area south of Phewa Tal is particularly suitable, with treks of two to five days being possible. This area, however, has fewer accommodation facilities so self-sufficiency is generally required. These trekking routes pass through some very attractive rural communities and with the low altitude reached, make suitable winter treks. It can get uncomfortably hot during the summer months, however.

Possibly the most attractive destination is Panchase, a 250 meter high hill to the west of Pokhara. This hill gives a Himalayan Panorama that rivals that found that at Poon hill. The easiest access to Panchase is from the village of Badauri, which can be reached on foot or vehicle from Naudanda on the Baglung highway. From Badauri it is a pleasant three to four hour walk through the forest to Panchase Deurali where some basic lodging is available. The hilltops are a further hour or so from here.

The Panchase trek can be extended in several ways. From Panchase hill it is possible to trek through the large Gurung village of Arthor and continues on to Karkinetta. Here some very basic accommodation may be found. The choice then is to trek to Kusma, on the Baglung highway in one day from where a bus can be taken back to Pokhara. Alternatively, there are buses and jeeps available at Karkinetta that connect directly with Pokhara.

Another possibility is to trek from Panchase back to Pokhara via the ridge that runs through the villages of Bhumdi and Pumdi. By taking this route you are able to complete the trek at the peace Stupa above Phewa Tal and then descend to the lake and reach lake side by boat. This route gives excellent views of the Himalaya with Phewa Tal in the foreground. No tea houses are available until the peace Stupa is reached.

To the north of Pokhara there is the, so called, trek. This for-day trek follows the ridges above Pokhara's second largest lake, Begnas Tal. No teahouses are available so groups need to be self-sufficient.

Views of the Annapurnas and back to Pokhara are worthwhile from the ridge top as a number of interesting Gurung villages is visited on the way. This is a particularly good route during the colder winter months.

Trekking in the Langtang area
One of the most accessible areas for trekking is the north of Kathmandu valley. While the area cannot boast any of the Himalayan giants, the scenery here is every bit as spectacular as most of the better known destinations. It is also far less visited by tourists making a trek here somewhat more of an adventure. Just above Kathmandu is the area known as Helambu, which is ideal for short duration treks and is especially suited to winter season trips. Here there is a series of north-south running valleys that provide a variety of possible trekking routes. At the head of these valleys is a ridge that separates Helambu from the east-west running Langtang valley. Here the high alpine scenery, with mountains visible from their base to their peak, and the sparsely inhabited nature of the country makes this an ideal destination for trekkers who are on a tight time schedule.

To the west of Langtang is a virtual wilderness area centered on the Ganesh Himal range, a collection of 6-7000 meter peaks that see very little tourist activity.

Langtang trek route goes through traditional, ethnic villages and untouched forests on the way to the peaks of Langtang-Lirung. The highlights of this tour include a visit to the Langtang valley, Kyangin Gompa and the Lirung Glacier. One can also climb the Lang Sisa Peak and visit Lake Gosaikunda, which is nearby.

One can catch a bus to Trishuli Bajaar from Kathmandu and from there again drive down to Rasuwa headquarters Dhunche and then to Syabrubesi from where the trek begins.

Permits and fees

The northern parts of the area largely fall within the boundaries of Langtang national park. Entry permits should be obtained in Kathmandu before starting to trek. Helambu, to the south, and Ganesh Himal, to the west, are the exceptions although to reach Ganesh Himal from Kathmandu an entry permit is required as the motor road is partly within the park. No trekking permits are required in this area. If accessing Helambu from Kathmandu a permit to pass through the Shivapuri watershed area, recently declared a national park ticket counter in Kathmandu.

All visitors intending to trek in any part of the Kingdom of Nepal shall have to obtain a trekking permit from the Department of Immigration, Bhrikuti Mandap, and permits are issued for trekking in any part of the country except in areas restricted for the foreigners by the government regulation.

A trekking permit is a must to visit restricted areas mentioned below. To visit normal trekking areas, no permission is required.

Trekking Permit Fees to Restricted Areas:

The Department of Immigration located at Bhrikuti Mandap ( Phone: 4223590, 4222453, 42233681) issues permit for the tourist who intend to trek to any part of the country. Trekking permit fee for different trekking areas are fixed as follows:

S.No. Area Fee (per person)
1 Dolpa and Kanchenjunga Equivalent to US $ 10 per week

for the first four weeks and

US $ 20 per week thererafter

2 Manaslu US $ 75 ( December –August)

per person per week.

US $ 90 ( September – November)

per person per week.

3 Simikot US $90 per person per week.

Extra US $ 15 per day per person

4 Mustang and Upper Dolpa US $ 700 per person for

the first 10 days and

US $ 70 per person per

day thereafter.

Note: Trekking to Dolpa, Kanchenjnga, Manaslu and Mustang can be undertaken through registered trekking agencies only.

WHEN TO TREK?

Although trekking in Nepal can be organized throughout the year, October through May are considered to be the best months for trekking. Summer months of the year which coincides with monsoon begins in mid-June and drains in mid-September making travel wet and warm. The mountain views may not be at their best as rain clouds and haze over hang the mountains occasionally obscuring the enchanting views. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation. During monsoon it does not mean that it will rain every day. Besides, some of the most frequented trails will not be crowded and some people like it that way. It can actually be enjoyed in the upper part of the Annapurna circuit around Marfa, Jomsom and Muktinath as the monsoon does not get in this trans- Himalayan are because they fall into rain shadow area. Note :- It is recommended to carry insect repellent when trekking during summer months.

Autumn being the best season for trekking, affronts excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views January and February are noted for cold weather with occasional snowfall at higher elevations. Again, excellent views are common. These months are popular and ideal for trekking for those who are well equipped or who remain at lower elevations below 3,000 meters.

Late February brings spring in Nepal and offers exhilarating trekking for those who are interested in flowers, birds and natural grandeur. Different varieties of wild flowers, specially the rhododendrons make the hill side above 8,000 ft haunting paradise during this season.

April and May are the expedition season and the best time for climbing the high peaks . It is mildly warm at lower elevations but occasional haze mars beautiful view of mountains. At higher elevations over 4,000 meters the mountain views are excellent and the temperature is quite moderate even at night.

MEDICAL MATTERS & ADVICE

Trekking in Nepal need not be considered risky affair as far as your health is concerned. But very little medical care along the trail is available, so make sure you are physically fit and healthy before departing. In case of serious illness or injury, prompt evacuation to Kathmandu is the best remedy. Helicopter rescue service is extremely expensive. Neither the Nepalese government, your embassy or the trekking agency ( if you are trekking with one) is responsible for the bill. Therefore, you are requested to insure for rescue operation also.

Take care of yourself along the trail by ensuring that water is boiled. Diarrhoea and headaches can be the curse for trekkers. So, bring appropriate medication and use them with caution. Sun burn can also be a problem at altitude, a barrier cream will protect your skin and good sun glasses are also necessary. Blisters are another problem for the trekker and adequate supplies of band aids